Bar Rogue, the new spin-off of the wine bar Le Rebelle, opens its doors this weekend on rue Beaufort


Last December, Perth bid farewell to the Must the Highgate bistro-slash-wine bar which introduced the city – and some might support Australia – to the pleasures of charcuterie. This weekend – almost a year to the day when Must has closed shop, by coincidence – rue Beaufort welcomes a new meeting place around wine in the district.

Enter Bar Rogue, a bar for 60 people by Sarah and Liam Atkinson from the neo-bistro Le Rebelle. In the eyes of the Atkinsons, Bar Rogue will be their mothership’s only spontaneous sidekick on the road: which they hoped the front half of Rebel would have been if the demand for seats hadn’t made it a reservation prospect.

When Large format sheet Checked with the Atkinsons last month, their take on the two-level space was old-world up front with the mezzanine taking on a more modern aesthetic. Husband and wife restaurateurs have kept their word. The street-level area has seemed to have been crowded with water for years. A beautiful U-shaped counter and bar sits at the heart of the room; the wood wall tables have Tinder Central written on them; the aluminum Venetians in the picture window break up the view of Queens across the road.

Upstairs, the dark wood and concrete floor of the bar give way to spacious benches and tables that truly whisper “dine here”. Abstract lights hover in the air. With the exception of the framed black-and-white photo of Meatloaf and a few salvaged signs from past lives in space like Kings Brasserie and Mykonos, everything looks very current.

It’s a similar story with eating and drinking. While Bartender Sam Cocks’ drink list includes draft beers, fine spirits, and a concise selection of cocktails, the wines are the center of attention. While Le Rebelle had a Franco-Australian orientation, Bar Rogue has a broader vision of the wine world with the cellar ranging from New Zealand Pinot Noir and South Australian Chenin Blanc in contact with the skin to American Riesling. Oregon renegade.

This global flavor is found in the menu which allows customers to choose between stracciatella with smoked eggplant and harissa, chicken skin and cucumber sandwiches, and fried chicken with cottage cheese and homemade caviar. While Liam’s fingerprints are all over the menu, first chef Sofika Boulton – last seen cooking at Wildflower – has also helped shape the food side of things. While her previous gig was all about finely tuned and complex dishes, she looks forward to a change of direction.

“The processes and methods will still be there, but I wanted to be a little more chaotic and loose and cook less difficult but still delicious foods,” she says. “When I first met Liam he said the exact same thing. But in doing this you really have to prove that you can cook because you have nothing to hide behind.

This idea of ​​getting back to basics seems to inspire much of the thinking at Bar Rogue, from the look of the space to the relaxed serving style under Asha Flintoft and the rest of the ground crew.

“We don’t want to complicate anything,” Sarah says. “It’s really lovely to see that today, ultimately, hospitality is synonymous with simplicity. It’s about a person walking through the door wanting to drink and want to eat and you give it to him. For a long time we [Perth] moved away from it.

Bar Rogue (515 Beaufort Street) opens on Friday, December 10 and trades from 4 p.m. to late, Thursday through Sunday.



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